Is any taco worth a 80 km round trip adventure from Manhattan across the East River and through the wilds of Brooklyn all the way to the beach in Rockaway and back through the perilous “straits of Verrazano” and north through the failed financial district through the mean streets of Manhattan? Is there something so cosmically tasty about a deliciously fried filet of fish inside a hand-made corn tortilla with radish, gobs of guacamole and sprigs of cilantro that a gaggle of friends would gather from three different boroughs to feast at the beach on a sunny Sunday in New York City? Did someone fiddle with the saturation settings on this photo or is this taco really magically colored?
Today we rode to eat at the shrine of the Rockaway Tacos! It was the full Rockaway Taco experience that I had been promised for more than a year and had longed to experience for myself. Others had gone before and had feasted at the Rockaway Taco, returning to sing the praises of “taco de pescado” and the “el pastor.” They gloated… Yes, and in their hubris they scoffed at those of us who had not made the pilgrimage across the Gil Hodges Memorial Bridge to the Land of the Rockaway to the site of ultimate taconess.
Today, we were led by Clarence the Junior (and his faithful companion, Nossa Senhora de Fátima) to dine at the shrine! You can see by the photo, we are all in a state of post-consumption, gluttonous bliss
Here is the full ride, plus ferry from Rockaway back to the tip of Manhattan, and back home.
This Timble Outdoors version has the version that is easily downloaded to any GPS and will get you through Brooklyn along the best bike-friendly streets (thanks to Clarence) and out to the absolutely best tacos in all of the tri-state region. (Photos and video attached to the Trimble Outdoors version)
My ride took me across the 59th Street bridge and down through a little bit of Queens to meet up with Clarence and Fatima at the Pulaski Bridge, which connects Queens to Greenpoint Brooklyn across Newton Creek.
Thanks to our wonderful New York City Transportation Commissioner, Janette Sadik-Khan, we have “sharrows” (bicycle lanes with arrows that are separated from the street) almost all along the streets that lead from the Queensborough Bridge through Brooklyn to the beach. Below is a photo of Clarence checking his messages to see where everyone else would be meeting us along the way.
From there we headed south down to Grand Army Plaza
The photo above is Fatima standing in front of the Soldiers and Sailors Arch, which is at the northern end of Prospect Park.
Just to the west of the Plaza is the terminus of the infamous Prospect Park Blvd bike lane, which runs from here to Bartel Pritchard Square. What a wonderful addition to the community that has sparked considerable controversy, particularly from those who may not be able to to drive or park their their personal vehicles in shared city space. All we saw today, on the many bike lanes, were many more cyclists than cars sustainably enjoying the streets of NYC. Build it, Janette, and they will come!
As we entered Flatbush we were joined by Ann Pope, the founder and Executive Director of “Sustainable Flatbush”, an NGO that brings “neighbors together to mobilize, educate, and advocate for sustainable living in our Brooklyn neighborhood and beyond.” In this photo above, Robert Eberwine is probably explaining some sort of high level nonsense about something and Ann is being both attentive and diplomatically interested.
If you ride due south through Brooklyn, you will eventually end up at Sheepshead Bay or crash into a Russian in Brighton Beach. The photo above is taken at the Sheepshead Bay Piers, where it looks like you can either take a boat out to go fishing or bring back your fish and nail it to a big post.
As you ride along the Sheepshead Bay there is a place called “Plum Beach” where the ocean had washed away the bike path. Above is a photo of Anne and her friend Keka Marzagão, who are making the best of a stretch of sandy bike path by smiling as they are forced to dismount and walk their bikes. The infamous Gil Hodges Memorial Bridge can be seen the distance.
We crossed the Gil Hodges Memorial Bridge and I spent a few moments reflecting on the Brooklyn Dodger’s great catcher, who started playing for the Dodgers in 1943 before joining the Marines and serving in some of the big battles in the Pacific arena during World War II, earning a Bronze Star. He was discharged from the Marines in 1946 and then went on to play for the Dodgers in Brooklyn and Los Angeles, eventually joining the expansion Mets in 1962. His career batting average was 273 and he should be in the Hall of Fame… but he does have a bridge!
Mela Ottaiano, Keka and Anne in Jacob Riis Park, named for the famous NY journalist and photographer who wrote about the poor of the city. The park stretches along the the ocean and was designed by Robert Moses. I’m pretty sure that Mela, Keka and Anne are blissfully unaware of this and simply enjoying the sunshine and the art deco bathhouse to their left.
Just after mid day we arrived at the Shrine, otherwise know as Rockaway Taco! Above you can see the bike parking jam! We were there early enough so there was no wait to worship at the counter and request divine guidance from the menu. What??? No El Pastor today, sorry. I settled for un taco de pecsa, un taco de chorizo and went back for un taco de carne. Yes… I ate the trinity! Nossa Senhora de Fátima personally assured me that she would not think less of me for having consumed mass quantities.
Clarence does not like loves the radishes! He has graciously offered to share them with anyone who wants a consume anyone’s used radish. However, Clarence does not eat fish, which everyone thinks is particularly weird. But, we like Clarence because he knows the way to the Rockaway Taco and he led us successfully on our pilgrimage today. Our friend, Ann, looks on in bemused indifference. Fatima is obviously entranced with her taco and can’t be bothered with Clarence’s nonsense.
My plan for the adventure was to head back to the Gil Hodges Memorial Bridge and take the 2:30 ferry back to the tip of Manhattan. Since we finished the official “Munching of the Tacos” at 2:00 pm, I had a quick ride back to make it on time.
My fairly famous “taxi bike” (because it is colored and stenciled like a NY City taxi cab) sat in the stern of the ferry, while I busied myself on the upper deck with the observance of the revered Dutch post-cycling tradition by having a Heineken and watching the cityscape. OK, maybe I had more than one Dutch treat. But then, I’d just ridden a long way and needed to restore my glycogen stocks and there is only one happy molecule difference between alcohol and glycogen, which makes beer just sugar with benefits. Anyway, it was a lovely trip by ferry and a good a place as any to have a few beers.
The ferry runs only on weekends now, leaving the Riis Landing and circling past Coney Island and under the Verrazano-Narrows Bridge and up the Hudson River, around Governor’s Island to the tip of Manhattan. This, below, is the stunning shot of the city.
However, no matter how often I see the city on a lovely day in September, there is always something missing from the skyline.
Docked in Manhattan and steeled by Dutch courage for the ride uptown on Third Avenue.
So, it was a great ride (boat trip) and ride. The itch to have a Rockaway Taco has now been fully scratched and I’m wholly satisfied by the entire Rockaway Taco experience. For those who may want to follow in our footsteps, here is the Rockaway Taco official map:
(Photos here and below courtesy of http://rockawaytaco.com/)
Their menu is
What.. no lines?? Must be a weekday.