On the first day in Chiang Mai, my morning ride had been up the hill to the west of town (seen through the gates in the photo above.) I'd only made it to first big temple, but knew that there was some more mountain and the King's big palace way up at the top. So, since my flight back to New York through Bangkok and Los Angeles, didn't leave until the late afternoon, I left at dawn for a quick up the mountain and back home ride. I figured that burning 3027 calories in a 3:21 ride before the sun was over the treetops would mean that I could eat and drink my way home later that day.
About half way up the mountain, I almost fell off my bike when I realized the name of the palace I was riding towards. I'm not sure why it tickled me, but I imagined the King sitting on his throne in the Phuping Palace. (Idiotic scatological giggle.) When each of our boys were little, they had a special Phuping Place, where they would play with blocks or farm animals while they turned red in the face. It's funny what can amuse you when you are red-lining up a mountain on a bicycle.
Unfortunately, long pants and long sleeved shirts are required to enter the Phuping Palace grounds and I was definitely underdressed in my Dubai Roadsters jersey and spandex riding shorts. So, back down the hill it was for a quick return to the hotel for banana pancakes and bid farewell to Markus who was carrying bags to Khun Pui's car when I arrived.
My one regret from this trip was that I only discovered the absolutely best Traditional Thai Massage place in Chiang Mai during my last hours there. Khun Game had recommended this location, but Markus and I had missed it the night before, ending up at a place where the girls were cute but useless when it came to getting down to elbowing out the toxic muscle waste from several hundred kilometers of hills.
Located at 185 Tha Pae Road, right next to the Thai Farmers Bank, is Tha Pae Traditional Massage. The owner, who worked on me, was really gifted. There are masseuses I have known, like Yifat in New York, Angeles in Buenos Aires and Lara in Johannesburg, who can feel the muscle tension and stress areas without being told. For me, there are those spots in my mid-back where the rhomboid major and the trapezius turn into huge knots under the edge of my scapula. Maybe it is too much cycling or typing, but that is where my muscle stress goes to live and only the best massage therapists can zero in on that area with their finger tips and elbows.
Thai massage is the absolute best there is, even better than Swedish, for cyclists. The woman at Tha Pae, discovered the knotty worlds that are my calves and at one point was on her knees, astride me, digging into my hamstrings. She located my rhomboid areas and spent more than twenty minutes working then with a ferociousness that was commendable. Oh, the luxurious pain of a really great Thai massage. The two hours cost me 400 bhat (about US$13) plus tip.
So, after exactly a week in Northern Thailand, I was off home. Here are the important people to contact if you are considering a cycling adventure there.
We stayed at the Thaphae Garden Guest House, which is located at 60 Tha Phae Road, Soi 3, Amphur Muang, Chiang Mai, Thailand 50200. Tel: 66 5327 2499. The website is http://www.thaphaegardenguesthouse.com/ and their email is [email protected] This is a budget hotel that is safe, clean, run by a caring family and just perfect if you want an affordable place to stay, contact with real Thai people and some excellent tips on where to adventure in the region. Khun Game can be reached through this email address and he can put together any sort of cycling, mountain biking, trekking or bamboo rafting to butterfly farms.
The other place that we stayed, and which I recommend, is the BaanSuan Riverside Resort in Thaton on the edge of the Mae Kok River, below the Thaton Temple. They have email: [email protected] This is the place where we stayed at the end of the first day of riding and, for those of you who can handle coordinates, it is located at exactly N20 03.810 E99 21.613
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